All elements of American life began "heating up" in the 1960s. Since the early 1960s,
the Civil Rights Movement had been fighting to eliminate
racial segregation and the
oppression of African-Americans. An off shoot of this was an increased interest in Africa
and African culture. Feminism got a new lease on life after the
publication of Betty Friedan's The Feminine Mystique in 1963. Increasingly the
role of women in modern America was question. American women increasingly looked
beyond the family for "fullfilment". The impact on our society and
children is yet to be
fully assessed. Protests erupted
against the Vietnam War in the mid-1960s. Hippies held the first
"Be-in" during 1967
as they revolted against the values of what they saw as a consumer-oriented
society. Some experimented with hallucinogenic drugs for escape. The impact on consumer textiles of each of these events was significant.
African-inspired textiles became popular. Blue jeans were ubiquitous, worn morning, noon, and night. Young
protesters and hippies adopted blue jeans and incongrously, Army
fatigues, as virtual uniforms of the movement and a symbols of
solidarity
with working people. Psychedelic colors and patterns adorned their tie-dyed and
hand-painted garments.
The unifying themes of the protest movements
during the 1960s was to question authority. This filtered down to all
aspects of our culture and society, not the least was fashion. The
primary group participating in the movement was older teenagers and
young adults. They were the fashion setters. Younger boys, however, soon
followed their lead and the new fashions soon appeared even in
elementary schools. Boys and girls rejected the "nice" traditional clothes desired
by their parents. They wanted the tie-dyed shirts, fatigues, and jeans
worn by the teenagers they emulated. As part of this pricess, short pants
suits began to disapper. This was especially true inAmerica, but the process
was also notable in Europe.
The ever-hungry fashion industry constantly
sought new ideas and inspirations. It was not long before these symbols of
protest had been co-opted by mainstream fashion, with varying results. Blue
jeans, of course, are still with us, but the polyester double-knit pantsuit left the
fiber with a negative image that polyester producers are still trying to live down. Comediand still
use polyester leisure suits as a source of derision.
Fashionable psychedelic-printed textiles were worn by men, women, and children
in garments ranging from underwear to men's shirts. Mens' and boys' clothing styles also changed radically in the 1960s. Esquire called the newly
colorful men's styles "The Peacock Revolution," and men and boys of all ages felt free to
grow their hair long and wear colorful prints, leisure suits, and Nehru jackets.
Parents and schools at first resisted, but by the end of the decade, long hair for boys had become
increasingly common.
The 1960s were a dividing point for American and European boys
between the classic styles of the 1930s-50s and the styles more in vogue
today. At the beginning of the decade mny Europoean boys, still some teenagers,
wore short pants suits. By the end of the decade only little boys were still
in shorts and even more important, fewer boys were wearing suits at all. Informal
casual clothes became increasingly dominate. The Civil Rights Movement and
the War in Vietnam were major events in America, causing young peope to
question authority and a host of previously unsalable social coventions. In Europe
the Anti-War and Anti-Nuclear campaigns flourished, the enviromental
movement expanded. In Western Europe the 1969 Paris student movement put
a massive crack in the ossified edifice of French education. One
outcome was
the virtual disappearance of French school uniforms. There were even stirings
hehind the Iron Curtain that were to lead to the Prague Spring in the 1970s. Wile
these movements had massive spcial implications, one impact was that children,
even young children took control over what they would wear. Moms by the end of
the decade could no longer dictate what their children wore or in many
cases how he cut his hair. Well this was most vapparent with teenagers, even
elementary children gained considerable influence over their clothes.
I. America
While increasingly rare, a few boys were nicekly dressed in the
1960s. British fashions still influenced American mothers, a least wealty or well to do
families. The Kennedy's had a great impact on American fashion.
Jacki's impact on womens' fashions was legendary. The Kennedy
children impacted children's fashions. The most famous Kennedy boy, of course,
was John John. His wearng of a short pants suit,
with rather short shorts,
in the middle of the winter was noted by many mothers. His shortalls and red strap
closed-toe sandals
also impressed fashion concious mothers. Even after
going to New York he was often seen in shorts, knee socks, and "t" bar
sandals until he was about 10. These outfits probably did't
indear John to his
friends. (Incidentally
John didn't like to be called John-John, his famous kickname appears to '
have been a press creation.) Jacki's choices in clothes for both John
and Carolyn
were more English
than American. While noticed, few American mothers could keep hope to
keep their
boys in shorts passed the shortalls/Eton suit phase. Perhaps more
influential was John John's bangs. Ethel Kennedy kept her younger boys in black short
pants suits and knee socks. But these were the last few times that
such fashionable clothes would be seen on American children.
Movies and Televison: Interesting details on boys'
clothing styles can often be seen in old movies and television shows
or shows with period settings. As in
the later 1950s, the boys pictured on American television never wore
short
pants. Certainly not for
dressy occasions, but not even for play.
Congress passed the Textile Fiber
Products Identification Act (TFPIA) in 1960. The proliferation of
manufactured fibers proved confusing. When only natural fibers and
rayon were in
use, it was
relatively easy to tell one type of fabric from another. With
manufactured fibers,
and especially with blends, it was virtually impossible to know just
which fibers
one was dealing with. TFPIA simplified matters by requiring that
apparel be
labeled as to fiber content.
A. Dress clothes
Boys in America increasinly reserved theirbsuit for very special
occasions. Even church did not merit a suit Boys' suits
were mostly single breasted with narrow ties and lapels. There
were also some new fabrics such as searsucker.
Some boys wore searsucker or Madras jackers with contrasting shorts.
Cord suits were also available. Boys mostly
dressed up in
long pants suits.
Short pants suits were never as common in America as in Europe. As the
decade progressed fewer and fewer boys dressed up in shorts.
Some little boys wore shortalls, a new style intoduced at the beginning
of the decade. Jackie Kennedy and the way she dressed John John
had the impact of promting this style. Slightly older little boys
might wearEton suits. At about 7 or 8 they might get
regular
short pants
suits which they would wear for a few years, but rarely beyond 10
or 11. By the end of the decade, however, even this was declined
greatly. For
most American mothers it was a struggle beginning at about 7 years
to keep boys in
short pants suits. Most of the parents that did were wealthy and sent their
children to private schools which had short pants as a uniform.
Knee
socks were not as common as in Europe, but worn by well dressed boys
for special occasions.
As the population moved to the more informal suburbs,
boys dressed up less and less. Suits and even blazers were less
commonly worn. Even occasions formerly requiring
suits and ties such as church and
parties increasingly were more casual events for boys. As a result,
dress
occasions like church or dance classes were often meant a mix
of clothing. Some parents holding to the old conventions. At the
beginning of the decade there would still be some boys up
to about 12 in short pants suits. By the end of the decade, however,
only
younger boys of 7 or 8 years might be seen in dressy shorts, and
even this was increasingly
rare.
B. Casual/play clothes
Shorts were becoming increasingly popular among boys
as casual play wear. They certainly appealed to hard pressed moms because
of the ease of washing them. Manufacturers had found consumers receptive to clothing that did not require
ironing but that also had the look and feel of cotton. Clothing was given
wrinkle-resistant finishes (these had first appeared in 1929). Resin-finished cotton
or cotton and polyester garments were marketed as "wash-and-wear" or "easy
care."
A new style was inroduced, "camp shorts" with
larger pockets. Toward the end of the decade "cut offs" became popular.
They emphasized that they were casual, not dress wear. The idea being that
one did not purchase a proper pair of
shorts, but rather salvaged an old pair of worn out log
pants bt cutting off the legs. Some younger boys began wearing these
casual styles to school. Older boys could now
be seen wear Bermuda shorts" or "Bermies"
for casual wear, always with white athletic socks and tennis shoes.
While dress shorts were becoming less common, play shorts were becoming
more popular.
II. England
A. Dress
Many boys in England commonly wore short pants suits at the beginning of the
decade. The suits were generally worn with knee socks. Shorts on even older boys were still
common at the beginning of the decade. Parents were, however, beginning to discuss the
fashion of having boys werar shorts, even in the
winter.
But this style passed to younger and younger boys as the decade progressed.
By the end of the
decade almost few
British boys beyond the age of 11 still wore short pants suits, although many boys, even some in
the first years of their secondary school wore shorts. (Some private
schools still required all their boys to wear shorts.) British Boy Scouts
went to long pants, further influencing the trend away from shorts.
B. School
School uniforms began to change in the 1960s. Most schools still
required them, both state and private schools. Caps began to disappear.
Toward the end of the decade, older boys began tomlobby for long pants.
Womens' styles changed again and may affected boys' styles. One new
fashion appears to have
had a significant impact on boys'
fashions. Skirt lengths began to rise higher and higher. Rising
hem lines and "hot pants," very brief short pants,
for young women were widely discussed in the press. This made boys
in older boys in England
and the Continent still wearing shorts, generally as part of a school
uniform, increasingly self conscious and by the late 1960s and early
1970s even
conservative schools were shifting to long pants.
C. Play
A. Dress
In Europe shorts were still common, but becoming less so. The
Paris student
movement that eruted in 1969 had a great impact on Frech education.
An off
shoot of the empowerment of young people was the rapid disappearance
of
short pants suits for boys even in elementary school. The
disappearance of dress shorts
was part of the increasing influence of the boy's own opinions.
This was
facilitated in the late 1960s by the anti-war movement and the
decrediting of adults abnd adult conventions
Wearing old ragged clothes became stylish. Boys didn't want to wear suits at all,
especially short pants suits.
B. School
Unlike England, Continental European schools were generally less
insistent on shorts and by
the end of the decade it was realtively rare to see an older boy in
a short pants suit. A few private schools did continue to require
shorts.
C. Play/casual clothes
French and German boys, like their American
counterparts all wanted to wear jeans. American boys did begin to wear
shorts more for play.
Related Pages in the Boys' Historical Web Site
II. Europe
Additional Information
Christopher Wagner
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