The transition from elaborate Little Lord Fauntleroy suits, Buster Brown suits, kilts, and dressy short pants to sneakers ("kicks" in today's vernacular), casual blue jeans, and baggy trousers for boys is an interesting study in social history and the evolution of modern childhood and teenage chique. The mod boy of today would hardly recognize his counterpart of 100 years ago who might have found
Figure 1.--After the turn of the century Fautleroy sits with shorts ending above the knee and white stockings or knee socks appeared. |
Children's dress clothes were once made from
elegant brocades, lustrous velvets, silks, taffetas,
printed, striped and flowered cottons, and laces and other
fancy fabrics. These materials are a far cry from the denim and
other more practical material from today. These materials were
used for costumes worn in Sunday-best, christening,
school and party dresses. Often coats, hats
and shoes completed fashionable ensembles.
The images of clothes in this web site will hopefully charm
anyone susceptible to the enchantment and beauty of childhood and
prove, as
well, a storehouse of ideas for those concerned with
fashion and design, both children's as well as modern adult
fashion.
The hours of patient needlework and laundering represented
by the embroidered, ruffled, tucked and be-ribboned
costumes in the historical images depicted in this site mark
the great difference
from today’s concept of what children will do and what
they should wear. But, as Miss Polaire Weissman, Executive
Director of The Costume Institute, remarks: "The magic and
gaiety of children are both timeless and irrepressible.
Looking at these clothes, one imagines they must have been
worn very often with child-like delight in and enchantment
with ‘dress-up’."
Parents during the Victorian and Edwardian era dressed formally
even for travel or leisure activities. Little boys wore dresses,
sometimes well passed the todler stage. Once they were "breeched,"
parents insisted that their children
dress formally and smartly to reflect well on themselves and demonstrte
their social status. Thus a boy, from an affluent family, even for
an outing in the park, would be dressed formally. Such conventions
filtered down to middle class families which could afford it.
Clothes were rather expensive in the 19th Century when measured in real
income. Some mothers might
dress all the children in
smocks
to protect their clothes during such outings.
Special formality was expected at
parties and other scial events. Boys in addition to
their rather formal every day or play wear would also have a party suit
for special occasions. Party suits in the
1880s-90s were often
Little
Lord Fauntleroy suits or kilts for boys. They were made for
sizes up to 7 or 8, which would mean boys of 9 or 10 would be wearing
them. Many other styles were
available to the fastidious, fashion conscious mother.
Gradually styles
changed and
after World War I more practical styles emerged. The changes in
boys and other fashions were affected by major social trends:
Demographics: Imigration restrictions in America reduced the
supply of domestic servants willing to work for low wages. This made
the job of keeping children outfitted in elaborate formal clothes
increasingly difficult. New styles emerged in the 1920s, such
as
rompers for little boys and
short pants with bare knees and
knickers for older boys proved much easier to launder than the
formal
styles worn before World War I. Eventually jeans and sweat shirts
proved much more practical and welcomed by boys.
Working mothers: Increasing
numbers of even middle class women entered the work force during World
War I and to a much greater degree during World War II. This
meant that mothers could no longer devote all their energies to their
families and children, a factor in the growing independence of
children.
Family roles: Parents at the beginning of the 20th Century, especially mothers,
were still choosing their sons' clothing
and until they were older teenagers, the boys had
little say in the matter. As the Century progressed, family roles
shifted. Fathers became less dominate. Mothers were also involved
in the work force
and away from home. Discipline became
much less strict and children exerted increasing influence in family
decisions. Boys increasingly exerted more influence on how they were dressed.
Mass media: The growth of mass media meant that children's
and teenage values
and tastes, even those of young children, were heavily influenced by
forces outside the family. Children made their desires known in clothing purchases.
Parents could no longer dictate fashion. Children are now introduced
to a vriety od products and styles, beyond the control of their arents.
Affluent American children demanded
designer clothing advertised and worn by their friends.
Teen culture: Until the 20th Century there was no such thinf as teen
culture. Except for affluent families, boys entered the work force at at 12-14
years of age often as aptrentices. The long period of extended education sometimes as
young adults is a novel development.
Life style: The movement to the suburbs and more informa;
suburban life style also affected clothing. Suits were less commonly
worn. Increasing demand for comfortable clothes more suitable for
active play and sports made the styles emerging in the 1920s more
practical. This desire
for comfort, practicality, and easy mainteance eventually led to the
sneakers, jeans, "t" shirts, and sweats
worn today.
The children, especially those from well off families, at the
beginning of the Century who commonly dressed in fancy, formal
clothes--even for play--would marvel and modern children. Today's child
would find the clothing common a century ago highly
restrictive and uncomfortable. It would certainly inhibit a child who wanted to enjoy
the playground in the comtemporary scene. Informal styles are now
in vogue with children rarely dressing up and then only under duress.
Some wonder about the impact of allowing children to dress and
act as adults. In the
not to distant past when pre-pubesent boys wore short pants and
knickers before they began to shave; getting
one's first pair of longies was a major rite of passage. Clothing
made it
easier for children to think and behave as children. Now even
preschool children may be dressed
as minature adults, from blue jeans to expensive designer fashions.
A whole range of
of adult clothing and adult options are now open to children. One
has
trouble realizing that children are children today and not
scaled-down adults as they dress and
move like adults. The media protray children as precocious, forcing
children to think they should
be acting grownup before they are really ready to do so. Many
believe we are forcing our children to
grow up to early. In the days that short pants and childhood went
together there was more time to play, more
time to be a child.
David Elkind addresses this problem in his thought-provoking
book, TheHurried Child.
Our web page takes a look at the development of boys clothes over the
past 500 years, from
1500 to date. In some ways boys' clothes have
made a full circle from:
--clothes just like their fathers
(before the late 1790s)
with no consideration to childhood
--to special juvenile styles
(after the late 1790s)
--back to dressing children in adult styles
(since the 1960s).
Boys throughout the years have been dressed in a great
variety of outfits. There are, however, several unifying threads:
Dress like dad: Boys have usually preferred to dress like
their fathers and
have usually lobbied, when their desires were considered, not to be
dressed in destincly juvenile outfits--especially elaborate
styles for dress occasions.
Teenagers who would develop their own culture beginning in the 1930s,
did
develop their own styles. While it may have differed from dad's it was
very imortant to differentiate from the childish styles from
which they had just emerged.
Comfort: Boys have generally preferred comfortable, casual clothes
to dress clothes. They are almost always less interested in formal, dressy
clothes than their sisters.
Reject girlish styles: Boys have consistently rejected styles associated
with girls. The converse is not true, however, for girls. Girls have
consistently added boyish styles to their wardrobe alternatives. When sailor suits
became popular for girls, older boys no longer wanted to wear them. When
girls began wearing shorts in the 1930s-40s, many boys objcted to wearing them.
When knee socks became identified as girls socks in America, boys
rejected them.
This web page is divided into several major sections. We
incourage you to peruse all the different main topic sections and related pages.
Please let us know if you have any comments or additional
information to add.
We would be especially interested in any memories you might have
about your boyhood clothes and experiences concerning those clothes.
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